[Day 92] Leadore

As one might expect, after establishing a late camp, tossing and turning throughout the night, participating in “scratch attacks” on the allergic reaction on my legs, and holding down the fort in winds that nearly ripped my tent up from its stakes, this morning was not a particularly early or easy rise. The warmth of the sun, more than anything, ensured a discomforting sweat in my sleeping bag.

I had a quick and easy 500 foot climb or so to Elk Mountain, the last spot of 10,000 foot elevation on trail. I took a minute to enjoy the view, then made the drop to Bannock Pass. I was very much focused on making the highway. Highway 29 is a gravel road that sees negligible traffic as compared to the California definition of a highway. Trail traversed around the fingers of Elk Mountain and rolled over the divide line quite often until meeting dirt roads that fell over Bannock Pass. I made the highway by noon. By chance, after ten minutes wait, Randy — a shuttle driver to and from Leadore — was dropping off some southbound hikers and took me in.

By the way, like the town of Lima, Leadore isn’t pronounced how the mind might read it. My initial attempt was “Lee-adore.” The town name is, in fact, pronounced like “Led-ore,” as in the poisonous metal followed by the mineral rich deposits that miners extract from the ground. Leadore homes some 100 or so people. However, with a fire currently east of town, the population is eight times its usual size with an additional 700 person fire crew. For those who have driven the scenic route of Highway 395 along California’s Eastern Sierra, take a town like Independence, with its abandon buildings and all, and shrink it to a fifth the size. That’s what Leadore reminds me of.

Randy dropped me at the main shop in Leadore, the Stage Stop, serving up gas, groceries, and good meals. I got on with eating and resupply. The place was closed by 4pm, so I moved over to the public library for the free Wi-fi, bathroom, an air conditioned lobby, and power outlets.

After I wrapped up my digital content work, laundry and a shower were a must. Typically, I would be fine skipping since I just did it in Lima. But, Lima’s services didn’t cut it, and the allergens from the burn areas were bloodying my bumpy legs from all the scratching. Mark, the owner at the Mustang Inn in Leadore, provides hikers laundry and a shower for cheap, so I took that offer up. It made a world of difference, and my legs are looking back to normal. My clothes are actually clean.

It was 8pm on Sunday. Everything in town was closed. A shuttle up to Bannock Pass tonight was not in the picture. I walked down to the Stage Shop, which lets hikers pitch a tent for free. I remembered I threw my old pizza box with a couple slices in the trash can, so I dumpster dove (this is an exaggeration) and retrieved dinner. Cold pizza always disappoints, even in a state of caloric deficit.

Signing off,

Zeppelin / fReaK (ON a leash)