[Day 73] Grizzly Country

Today marks my formal entry in grizzly country. I make this distinction not because of fear of these animals, but because I sense this marks a symbolic change towards a more exclusive backcountry. Thus far, the seasons of the mountains and harsh nature of the deserts have made my travels less trafficked. Now, population density and rugged country will keep these backcountries unshared.

I have crossed the barrier of the Great Divide Basin, and I am well north of Colorado, which is the hub for commerce and large metropolitan operations in these middle western states. Though much of this region will have strong dependence on Denver for its supplies, I would not consider them Colorado satellites, whereas Cheyenne and Laramie are very much so. The Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho states ahead have some of the lowest population densities in the country. Of course, tourism will appear — Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks come to mind. But, I am doubtful this will be anything like June in Colorado, or “Winter Texas” as I jokingly call it.

The grizzly bear is a creature to be revered. This reverence must also extend towards the hinterlands they occupy. Though the occasions of serious human incidences with grizzlies are rare, I will be more intentional with my practices and awareness. As far as gear, I will carry and know to proper use of:

• Bear spray: This is a critical item; I will have this holstered next to the hip belt pocket of my backpack.
• Bear hanging kit: I have hung my food once before. Tree and adequate height and reach conditions are critical for a proper hang.
• Ursack bear bag: I have carried this since the Mexico border (I don’t know why). I haven’t used it once. It’s an alternative to hanging where the bag is tied to a tree. Bears can bite and tug at it all day, but the kevlar fabric is supposed to prevent them from getting at the food. Food may be slim salvaging after a bear’s go at the bag.
• Scent masking/deterrent with Pine-Sol: I have been scenting my trash, washing items with, and wafting it around camp at night. Supposedly, bears very much dislike pine scent. There has been a noticeable change in small critter interest of my camp.

After loitering over breakfast at the local bake shop, picking up my new fleece from the Amazon counter, and downing a plate at the local Chinese restaurant, I made my exist from Lander. The hitch was tricky, and it took me about two hours before a local, who was taking another hiker to trail, picked me up.

The hiking started at 2pm from Highway 28. It was easy walking with one bump over 9,000 feet. The desert sagebrush openness of the Basin began to mingle with the dense pines of the mountains, switching in and out of forest and desert. By the end of the day, the forest dominated the landscape. It was a landscape reminiscent of Kennedy Meadows South on the PCT — sagebrush desert to forested mountain transition.

Water sources became abundant. And, I got a little too picky with my crossings. I decided to cross a smaller, but deep creek over a downstream log. Almost across the creek, the log rolled, and I tumbled hands first into the depths of the thigh deep water. Soaked from my chest down, the first thought ran through my head: what did I ruin? My right hip belt pocket, holding my camera, was open. And, it was dripping. My camera wasn’t in its plastic baggy either. I immediately stashed the camera deep into my backpack with my dry gear, hoping my quilt might suck some of the water out.

Nonetheless, I expect the camera to be a goner. It’s seen over 4,500 miles of foot travel and its been a tank. I don’t know how it’s managed to make survive all the turmoil we have seen together. The bummer is I am heading into the most exquisite section of scenery on the trail, and my camera is dead. I guess my iPhone will have to do for some time.

At the end of the day, I crossed the Sweetwater River and pitched camp in the Sweetwater Guard Station Campground. The mosquitos, though not dense, occupy the land and assemble rather quickly. I expect bug season is in full swing now, and I won’t have nighttime freezing conditions to help me out.

Signing off,

Zeppelin / fReaK (ON a leash)