[Day 38] Edges

The hiking started around 8am. I was exhausted this morning. I had a late night in town getting together my things and updating my blogs. Though I write them on trail, adding to, editing, and uploading the content takes many hours.

Back to my day, it started off pretty good. I got over a mountain pass and trail was exposed for maybe one and a half miles. It was a nice surprise. Soon enough though, the snow hid the path for the entirety of the remaining day.

I got to the Creede Alternate Junction, and I was envious. The Creede Alternate cuts over 100 miles off the San Juan mountain u-turn that the watershed divide and official CDT follows. Not to mention, the valley to the town of Creede was entirely snow free. I compared the views to my right and left. That Creede Alternate was so tempting. But, I quickly stuck a needle in that thought bubble and went my way into the San Juan’s. I initially regretted it — postholes to my hips, self arresting on steep slopes, wet feet all day long. But, the mountains are gorgeous and I need some trial — alone, no tracks, nobody behind or in front.

I hit another mountain pass with a cliff edge running to the jutting peak like a spine. A snow cornice lipped over the cliff edge, and I hiked about five feet on the right of the ledge as I climbed. Many spots showed the snow beginning to fail at the ledge, as deep cracks separated snow chunks from the larger snowfield.

The thought of the Creede Alternate kicked around in my head some more — it was slow going today; tiredness was getting to me. I should have stayed an extra day in Pagosa Springs, but the cost to stay and difficulty of getting around town made it unappealing. There was another trail junction I could take to get me to the Creede Alternate. I punted the idea finally and sent my way forward, deeper into the San Juan’s.

After this turning point decision, I decided to restructure my plan. Instead of aiming for Lake City as my next stop some 115 miles from Highway 160, I resolved to checkpoint at on the Stony Pass Trailhead, which provides access into Silverton. I’m not avoiding Silverton, but it’s a difficult town to get to and from. In prime season, ATVs and OHVs drive the Stony Pass road, so many hikers get a lucky hitch into Silverton. I doubt I’ll be as lucky. The road is likely still snow covered. Additionally, I decided to target my mileage for 15 miles a day. This takes a bit of pressure off to expect big miles, especially as I head further into the unknown of the San Juan’s.

Around noon today, the air became hazy and the smell of smoke lingered, though not aggressively. The USFS engineer who drove me into Pagosa Springs said she expected fire season to kick up now, and I was right in her backyard — Rio Grande National Forest.

I made it 16 miles, which leaves me about 60 miles to the Stony Pass Junction. I finished up some chicken fried rice and I’m bundled up in my tent for a chilly night ahead. Also, I’m camped under some recent avalanche sites. It’s not an ideal, risk-free spot, but it was the best camping for the next few miles. If I’m buried tonight, I am sorry mom. You raised a dummy.

Signing off,

Zeppelin