[Day 18] Chain of Craters


Today consisted of ankle-busting terrain along the Chain of Craters. The southern craters were not very fascinating. They were closer to hills with significant tree coverage. I cruised the first 18 miles through grassy lava fields with dispersed tree coverage.

Cerro Brilliante in morning light.

🗓️ DateMay 3rd
⇢ Mileage33.2
📍 Trip Mileage432.4
⛅️ WeatherSteady 70°F, sudden windy thunderstorm in the afternoon with spitting rain, windy night
🏞️ Trail ConditionsMostly cross country travel by cairn, some dirt roads and highway
Seen plenty of cow skulls.
Storm over the Malpais.

At mile 18, I connected with a dirt road that led north to New Mexico Highway 53. The road, in its final miles, connected with a beautiful caldera — the Bandera Volcano — and the Malpais. I tried to navigate cross country to a small convenience store at the base of the Bandera, but the Malpais won out. About a quarter mile into my off trail shortcut, I hit a lava valley and I was hesitant to cross. The danger of falling and cutting myself wasn’t worth a popsicle at a country store. I was already taking risk crossing the Malpais without a trail during a thunderstorm.

There’s a salt flat in Death Valley known as the Devil’s Golf Course, where the dirt and salt have dried into sharp, spiked earth. The Malpais is reminiscent of it, only the spikes of the Malpais are shin high and made from the most torturously sharp lava rock you might imagine.

Bandera Volcano.
Malpais lava canyon.

I resigned to hike to Highway 53 and skip the small convenience store. I’m all but a day out from Grants. The hike along Highway 53 was one of the more dangerous highway walks I’ve done, despite its length being all of four miles. No shoulder existed, the highway was curvy, and cars were going 70mph.

Walking along Highway 53.

I was relieved to have the road walk done, and I felt like I still had a few more miles in me. I made it another five miles on trail. Along the way, I passed by many lava caves. Their entry ways were tempting, but I knew that was a rabbit hole I shouldn’t go down, at least after 30 miles of hiking.

Cave entry.
Follow the cairns.
Distant elk retreat.

Same as last night, I pitched my tent in precaution of rain. It seems the Malpais works up weather systems of its own accord and taste.

Signing off,

Zeppelin

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *