[Day 17] El Malpaís


I woke up later today, and I wasn’t hiking until around 8:30am. I’m unsure why my starts have been later. My puffy eyes were drowsy — I’d guess my chili macaroni of last night was a bit high in salt content.

TLC Ranch homestead.
Ranch horses.

🗓️ DateMay 2nd
⇢ Mileage30.1
📍 Trip Mileage399.2
⛅️ WeatherSteady 70°F, sudden windy thunderstorm in the afternoon with sleet
🏞️ Trail ConditionsDirt roads, last twelve on cairn-led cross country route

The day ahead was set to be dirt road, and there was no exception. It was made a bit brighter by some of the passing traffic. A father and his daughters stopped their truck to give me a tangerine and some advice for the location of a secret well; a BLM manager for the the states of New Mexico, Colorado, Kansas, and one other state I can’t recall gave me a cold water bottle. It is always a pleasure to interact with locals — whether they provide help or not. For many, they express how happy they are that hikers are walking and enjoying their locale and state.

Endless.

The Cebolla Alternate turn off came and went today. This alternate climbs into Cebolla National Forest and crosses paths with many petroglyphs. There’s other modifications that can add a natural arch and a rim trail. This route can cut up to 40 miles off the walk from Pie Town to Grants.

New Mexico Highway 117.
Heading towards the distant craters.

I, however, decided to follow the traditional CDT which follows the Chain of Craters of the Malpais. The Malpais is a National Monument known for rigorous, desolate volcanic fields that cover much of the landscape. The name is derived from the Spanish term malpaís, which translates to “bad country.”

A refreshing windmill well.

I was hiking along today with some nice cloud coverage. As I refreshed myself at a windmill-powered well, in the distance, I noticed a couple clouds dropping some rain. I didn’t think much of it. I continued after a break, facing the sunny west as I headed towards the craters. Not too far from the windmill, I heard the crackle of thunder and my side was bombarded by wind carrying wet and cold sleet. This was a surprise, considering it was about 60°F out and sunny looking west. I turned around to see a dark looming cloud that covered the entire valley, and it was moving northwest with me. Realizing my exposure on this volcanic plateau, I started a run towards a dispersed tree line to evade lightning. I noticed my ears tingling, something I figured had to do with the fluctuation of atmospheric pressure from the storm.

The beginnings of a sudden thunderstorm.

It was an odd sensation. I was on the edge of this sudden storm in blue-sky 60°F sunlight, yet the wind whacked me with sleet. After some intervals of jogging, I was far enough away where the storm was only occasionally spitting at me, and our paths forked.

Cerro Brilliante.
Cerro Brilliante at dusk.

I reached the southern crater — Cerro Brilliante — where I begin to follow the chain. The craters mark the true divide, and I will be on or very close to the split of the drainages between Pacific and Atlantic during tomorrow’s walk.

Home for the night.

Out of precaution of night showers, I pitched my tent for its first night on the CDT. It’s dead still tonight with a bright moon.

Signing off,

Zeppelin

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