[Day 11] Heart of the Gila

It was a full day. I slept in until 8:20am, packed camp and walked to the Gila Cliff Dwellings to wait for the 9am opening.

The cliff dwellings were an interesting visit. A group known as the Mongollons inhabited these cliffs for some 20 to 60 years. They farmed, growing corn and squash sustain themselves. It was estimated a population between 40 to 80 people lived in these caves

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After the visit, I got on my way to trail. A couple highway miles later, I was at the entry trail to the lower middle fork of the Gila. Alternative to the low route, there is a high route trail that stays above the valley. I’m glad I took the low route, despite its exhausting, tough-loving, slow-going terrain. I crossed the river at minimum of 50 times today. People aren’t kidding when they say there are a total of 208 crossings along the low route.

This river valley is extraordinary. Tall rock cathedrals stand about the river valley at every meander. It often takes some serious craning of the neck to appreciate this entire valley in its spectacle. I see parts of Zion, the Grand Canyon, and Pinnacles National Parks in the Gila. I am amazed this isn’t a national park itself. Though, it’s probably a good thing — there’d be plenty more deaths every year if this place was more popular.

Around 3pm, I passed by the Jordan Hot Springs. I decided to take a dip, considering I haven’t bathed since Silver City. The water was not jacuzzi hot — maybe 99°F —, but it was nice nonetheless. There seem to be quite a few natural hot springs along the Gila, and I’ve managed upon a couple small ones along my hike.

I contemplating taking a portion of the high route tomorrow to see what it’s all about. But, I’ve heard some of the better parts of the low route lie in the northern section. Depending how I feel tomorrow, I’ll determine. I think I’m on the verge of losing my left big toenail. It isn’t hurting, but I figure my toenail is probably critical protection especially when kicking rocks during stream crossings.

I’m cowboyed under some pines at Big Bear Connector which links the low route to the high route. I can tell it’s going to be a chilly night in this open meadow with likely some morning frost.

Signing off,

Zeppelin