[Day 10] Travelling Riverside

I pulled on my wet socks and shoes at 7am and crossed the river first thing in the morning. My position put me ten and a half miles to Doc Campbell’s Post, but I knew this river valley wasn’t going to let me there any time quick.

I slogged along at two miles an hour. Today was slow for many reasons: the pictures, the 40 waist-deep crossings, the lack of trail, the blowdowns, the rocky, ankle-breaking, dried stream beds, the sandy washes, the debris fields of branches.

There is never a bad day on trail though! I confirmed to myself: I’d rather be here than already under the thumb of an employer. I know that day is coming for me soon, and I don’t dread it. I am excited to start working full time, hopefully in product design. But, my opportunity window for an event such as the CDT is slim, and I’m maximizing this transition point.

After an excellent section of riverside miles, I merged with New Mexico Highway 15 for one and half miles to Doc Campbell’s Post. Docs is a notorious CDT hiker run stop, serving up some of the best frozen burritos, homemade ice cream, and an excellent selection of hiker resupply. I rolled in at 1pm, ate up, bought my foods for the haul to Pie Town, and charged my electronics.

Soon enough, it was 3pm. The Gila Cliff Dwellings, a 1700’s Native American living structure built right into cliffs, is a monument attraction at the terminus of Highway 15 — a small detour from trail north. It’s a worthwhile visit since I am so close. They were only open 9am to 4pm, and I wasn’t going to make that window today. Instead, I decided to hang around Docs until 7pm for dinner, then head out three or so miles to make the visit tomorrow.

I did so. I hiked the highway through sunset. On the darkness of the highway, guided by the stars, the glow of clouds on the horizon, and the choppy bleak yellow of the highway median line, I enjoyed a religious moment of appreciation — a love for life, a love for this breath, a love for America. I am so fortunate I find myself hiking the wilderness backbone of a country that made the model of liberty a practical reality.

I’m camped under the stars tonight at Upper Scorpion campground. I’ll sleep in tomorrow, visit the cliff dwellings, then head for the riverside route on the middle fork of the Gila.

Signing off,

Zeppelin